An exploration of Eysturoy

No hotel moving today, so it was a round trip we planned. (Well, as round as you can get somewhere with few roads and many interesting places).

The first place today was Elduvik – a very attractive village, though like so many, with a reducing population. Small fishing villages just can’t compete either with the large fishing fleets, or the demands of remote living generally. 

This village, though, did have some life in it, as well as empty houses. The next stop, which was a bit of a drive to see some rather uninspiring ‘rocking stones’ (they sway with the tide, but not much). The drive in was another spectacular one, though, so more than made up for it. Next, it was south to Runuvik, where we managed to find a “real” coffee shop (albeit with rather rubbish coffee) before heading to a lake that was meant to have good birdlife, but the fog meant we didn’t see much. 

We returned to Gjgv, and went for a walk up the hill to see over the village. By now, the mist had cleared, and we had a spectacular view of the valley, village and fjord beyond. There were many birds nesting on the cliffs – we even saw (fleetingly) a pair of puffins 馃檪 Our day was made! 

Back down to the village for another coffee, though the size of the (paper) cup made us realise that beer would have been a better option. The evening meal that night was a Faroese buffet. They’re not great at vegetarian food, and Janine wasn’t over impressed with the dried fish or whale blubber … (at least we didn’t get the smoked puffin we’d heard reports of!) 

T贸rshavn to Gj贸gv

So, our first full day. After a quick trip into town, in what I’d call a haar (no idea what they call it here; heavy mist perhaps) we set off. The actual driving distance to our overnight stop wasn’t that far, but we wanted to visit quite a few places en-route. 

The first stop we had was in Hvalsvik, known particularly for its church – the oldest of all the wooden churches in the Faroes. Next on to Saksun, a very attractive setting. This time, it’s particular claim to fame was the setting – above an almost circular lagoon. 

We then headed to Tj酶rnuv铆k, passing the only octagonal church (easy to see it) and the highest waterfall in the Faroes, which wasn’t as impressive as we’d hoped. Tj酶rnuv铆k was an afterthought, we thought we may as well continue the last few km up the road. We’re so glad we did! It’s in a beautiful location. The water was relatively quiet when we were there, but it faces straight out to the North – and the waves can be huge. It’s apparently a well known surflng location. Across the bay, there are 2 sea stacks; giants turned to stone when they argued. Within the village – a coffee and waffle seller 馃檪 

Next, we headed for Eysturoy, via the only bridge over the Atlantic 馃檪 Next it was Ei冒i, (pronounced eye-yuh) another very attractive village. We tried to see the sea stacks from behind – apparently possible here. We didn’t manage to find the vantage point, but we did find (yet another) waterfall, which, for me, was more impressive than the one that was meant to be the biggest. 

The final section was to Gj贸gv, taking us up high enough to look back over the sea stacks, and to see across one of the many isthmuses (isthmii??) on the islands. Spectacular views as we descended into the village. It’s yet another small village, kept alive, one can’t help but think, due to the Guesthouse, with its coffee shop, and I think they had the campsite as well. 

A fabulous start to the holiday (despite the interesting pudding at dinner … )