After yesterday’s sun, today started rather overcast. We headed back along the route we’d come last night, aiming for fjallsárlón – a lagoon with ice calving into it. Unlike Jökulsárlón it wasn’t nearly so crowded – when we arrived, we had the place to ourselves, though that didn’t last long.

The next stop was Kviarjokull, a glacier that gets pretty close to the road; however, the main attraction today was the Skatafell national park, where we went for a walk up to Svartifoss – (black waterfall), passing a couple of others on the way.

By then, the weather had closed in, so we just headed for the hotel, though that did include a long drive over Skeiðarársandur, a massive (largest in Europe) sandur plain – an outwash plain from the glaciers. At its maximum, it’s 30km from the edge of the sea to the firmer land – and 50km across. There are several main rivers, crossed by bridges – only built in the 70s (& washed away by a glacial flood 20 years later). All very grey – grey plains, grey sky …